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Argentina
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A
short lesson of Geography: Argentina
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Short
lesson of Geography: Argentina?
Comprising
almost the entire southern half of South America, Argentina is the world's
eighth largest country, covering an area of 2.8 million square km. Argentina
possesses some of the world's tallest mountains, expansive deserts, and
impressive waterfalls, with the diversity of the land ranging from wild,
remote areas in southern Patagonia to the bustling metropolis of Buenos
Aires in the north.
Its six major regions are as follows:
Cuyo & the Andean Northwest
This area surrounding the Andes began as a colony of Peru, but today only
a few miners and herders occupy this unforgiving region of volcanic peaks
and salt lakes. Very little rain falls in Cuyo, though to the east are
found the fertile river valleys and subtropical lowlands of the Gran Chaco.
Mesopotamia & the Northeast also called LITTORAL
The so-called littoral is an extensive area that includes
the provinces of Entre Ríos, Corrientes, Misiones, Formosa, Santa
Fe and Chaco. Also known as Mesopotamia because it is surrounded by the
Iguazú, Paraná and Uruguay Rivers, this is a region where
the landscape surprises with its colors and movement. From the gentle
slopes of Entre Ríos to the wet marshes of Corrientes and the red
hills of Misiones, everything is a reason for amazement.
The climate of this area can be considered subtropical and it is moderated
by the winds from the Atlantic Ocean, frequent rains and abundant vegetation.
The assorted fauna completes its natural attractions, turning it into
one of the most captivating regions in Argentina.
PUERTO IGUAZU
The main attractions of this area are, undoubtedly, the Iguazú
Falls. They are located in the northwest extreme of the province of Misiones,
1,400 km (875miles) from Buenos Aires, where the waters of the Iguazú
River (limit between Argentina and Brazil) flow from a height of 70 meters
(233 feet) onto the inferior course of the river offering the unique spectacle
of its 275 falls that seem to emerge from the virgin jungle of the Iguazú
National Park, which protects over 2,000 flora species and 400 bird and
wild animal species. ‘Iguazú’ means ‘Great Waters’
in the language of the ‘Guaraníes’, aborigines that
inhabited the region prior to white men arrival.
Two thirds of the falls are within the Argentine limits. However, it is
necessary to explore both sides since there is a very good panoramic view
from Brazil. To feel the falls close enough and enjoy the beauty of its
vegetation, birds and butterflies, it is essential to walk along the walkways
and paths on the Argentine side.
At the Visitors’ Center, located in ‘Area Cataratas’
(‘Falls Area’) of the Argentine National Park, an open train
is boarded for a 15-minute trip up to ‘Estación Cataratas’
(‘Falls Station’) (wherefrom the Superior and Inferior Walkways
are reached) and ‘Estación Garganta’ (‘Devil’s
Throat Station’) (wherefrom a 1,200-meter walkway leads to the observation
balcony of the Devil’s Throat, the most imposing of them all). Another
alternative to reach the Inferior and Superior Walkways is a walk along
the so-called ‘green path’ (about 15-minute long).
The Inferior Walkway permits a closest contact with the waterfalls and
the natural pools, allowing the visitor to enjoy the impressive scenery
where beautiful rainbows formed by the mist of the falls contrast with
the bright green of the exuberant vegetation. On the banks of the inferior
course of the Iguazú River Puerto Peligro is placed, an improvised
pier with access through the Inferior Walkway. Here, you may board the
small motorboats crossing the river up to the San Martín Islands
or the zodiac motorboats to get close to the most plentiful waterfalls
such as Arrechea, San Martín, Tres Mosqueteros, Bozetti and Devil's
Throat falls.
The Superior Walkway stretches along the upper part of the falls, over
the Iguazú River superior course, where the cascades start. It
is possible to observe from this walkway the Dos Hermanas, Chico, Ramírez,
Bozetti, Adán y Eva and San Martín falls.
From the observation balcony of the Devil’s Throat you get a magnificent
view of this impressive fall, indeed the most plentiful and imposing of
the whole arc of the falls. The fall is 150 m. (500 feet) wide, 700 m.
(2,330 feet) long and the Iguazú River flows 1,700 m3 of water
per second therein.
A good way to explore the hidden life of the subtropical jungle is to
take a drive in 4WD vehicles along the different paths purposely open
in the jungle. On the Argentine side, the Yacaratia Path travels 7 km
through the heart of the jungle reaching Macuco Pier, embarking or disembarking
pier for the ‘Great Adventure’. Another path specially designed
for photographic safaris and bird watching is the Macuco Path on the Brazilian
side. Both paths, leading to the inferior course of the Iguazú
River, are part of an excursion which may turn into an unforgettable experience.
With different names, at each side of the border, they are the passport
to a thrilling adventure that starts at the very moment of putting on
the life jackets and comes to its best when reaching the very point where
the falls meet the waters of the inferior course of the river. This excursion
is known as ‘Great Adventure’ on the Argentine side and ‘Safari
Macuco’ on the Brazilian side.
Near Puerto Peninsula, on the banks of the Paraná River, 7 km (4
miles) southwest from Puerto Iguazú stands a Natural Reserve Area
ideal to practice adventure or eco-tourism activities. Arriving by 4WD
vehicles, visitors can fully enjoy the subtropical rainforest, with the
possibility of getting to know its flora and watch the quite abundant
bird fauna of the region. Activities such as rappel, Tyrolese, trekking
and canopy can be practiced in the reserve. This tour, called ‘Iguazú
Forest’, is another option to keep exploring the beauties that nature
offers in the area.
A few kilometers from the falls, in Brazilian territory, stands the Itaipú
Dam, considered a masterpiece of engineering. The dam is 8 km (5 miles)
long and has a spillway that can pour 60,000 m3 of water per second, a
channel and an artificial lake with a surface of 1,350 km2. It is an enormous
power plant, which can produce up to 12,6 thousand megawatts, considered
one of the seven wonders of modern world, according to the ‘Civil
Engineering American Association’. Technical and tourist visits
are available.
Only 60 km (37 miles) from the Iguazú Falls, situated over the
Superior Course of the Iguazú River, the Yacutinga Lodge and its
Wild Life Refuge are settled in the core of the subtropical jungle, were
the sounds and images of the forest seem to fit perfectly with the natural-looking
constructions built with local materials such as stone and wood from fallen
trees. An important eco-touristic project never attempted before in Argentina,
whose philosophy is to preserve nature and to teach visitors, through
an array of different activities, to love and respect it.
On the Uruguay River, 200 km (125 miles) from Iguazú, the Moconá
Falls, which can only be reached in small expedition groups, appear in
the middle of the jungle. Located in the border between the Argentine
province of Misiones and Brazil, the Uruguay River forms a beautiful and
imposing fall when it splits its waters in two arms and flows over its
own course in a cascade parallel to the coast which is about 3 km (2 miles)
long with waterfalls that range from 5 to 12 m. (16 to 40 feet) in height.
Tourist facilities are scarce and the area can only be reached by 4WD
vehicles from the small town of El Soberbio.
A few kilometers south from Puerto Iguazú, you can visit the precious
and semi-precious stone Mines of Wanda (agate, quartz, amethyst, among
others, can be found there). A few kilometers further south, you reach
the small city of El Dorado with its citrus, pine tree forestations, yerba
mate and tea plantations. Going on southward, along National Route 12,
the city of Montecarlo stands surrounded by thick forestations in an area
of hilly slopes, 130 km (82 miles) from the Iguazú Falls and 185
km from Posadas. This village, located on the banks of the Paraná
River, houses the small Zoo Bal Park, with a wide variety of autochthonous
fauna species. Montecarlo stands out for its citrus production, its reforestation
activities, and cellulose production. The nearby complex ‘Celulosa
Argentina’, situated in Puerto Piray is an example of it. In October,
the ‘National Festival of the Orchid’ and the ‘Provincial
Festival of the Flower’ are held in the city. From here, the road
goes through the small cities of Puerto Rico and Jardín América,
wherein it is interesting to see the small 10-meter (33 feet) high cascade
called 'Salto Tabay' appearing in the middle of the thick surrounding
forest of autochthonous species. After a drive of 240 km (150 miles) from
Iguazú you reach San Ignacio, Santa Ana and Loreto Jesuit Ruins
just a few kilometers before the city of Posadas.
POSADAS
Posadas, capital of the province of Misiones, is located 1,000 km (625
miles) from Buenos Aires and 330 km from Puerto Iguazú. It was
founded in the second half of the XIX century and was built on the banks
of the Paraná River just where an aborigine reservation had been
settled in the XVII century. It is a relatively modern urban complex with
some old buildings in ‘Bajada Vieja’ district. The city has
a beautiful central square with local tree species such as lapacho, jacarandá,
pindó and petiribí. A few regional art museums exhibit sculptures
from the Guaraní Jesuit Missions. It is also possible to visit
the Botanical Garden, the Provincial Casino and the Palace of the Mate,
which houses a museum devoted to yerba mate (kind of green bitter tea).
The city is linked with Paraguay by the San Roque Gonzalez de Santa Cruz
Bridge that leads to the city of Encarnación.
The main centers of production and growing processes of products such
as tea and yerba mate are located in the central area of the province.
Such is the case of Oberá, a city located 95 km (60 miles) from
Posadas and the second city in the province. It was named like this after
a Guaraní cacique and it means ‘the one that shines’.
It has over 150 industrial companies where wood, tung and tobacco are
processed (the main yerba mate processing plants are established in Oberá
and Apóstoles.) Most of its inhabitants are Swedish, German, Norwegian,
Spanish, French, Polish and Russian immigrant descendants, which accounts
for the more than 30 different temples in the city. During the first week
of September, the ‘Festival of the Immigrant’, that gathers
people from everywhere in the province, is held and each community takes
part exhibiting its traditional garments, cuisine, crafts and dances.
In the surroundings there are two nice falls called ‘Berrondo’
and ‘Escondido’, which may be watched from its corresponding
belvederes. Oberá also houses one of the most important motorcar
racetracks in Argentina, where TC2000, South American Grand Prix (F3)
and Turismo Carretera races take place. In the central area of the province,
the city Aristóbulo del Valle, one of the most important villages
due to its tea, tobacco and yerba mate plantations rise at about 500 m.
(1,665 feet) above sea level. Only 4 km (2.5 miles) from Aristóbulo
del Valle, more falls can be visited: ‘Salto Encantado’, ‘Salto
Piedras Blancas’, ‘Salto Alegre’ and ‘La Olla’,
among others. In the same area it is located the town of San Vicente,
especially apt for processing the typical local products thanks to its
moderate temperatures and humid climate. In December, the ‘Agro-Industrial
and Artisan Exhibition’ takes place, where machinery for the wood
industry is exhibited, accompanied by a 6-day long festival with folk
performances and typical dances. Within short distance from the village,
a wide variety of animal species can be admired, such as parrots, hummingbirds,
tapir, tamandú, yaguareté and capybaras.
Jesuit Ruins
There are several Jesuit ruins around Posadas.
Most Jesuit settlements were located in this region: eight in Paraguay,
seven in Brazil and fifteen in Argentina. Some of them appear in rather
good conditions but some others have completely disappeared. They are
the result of the evangelical determination of the Jesuit priests to convert
the Guaraní aborigines to Christianity. This attempt did not produce
the expected results so the priests decided to live with the converted
ones within missions (reservations of converted aborigines). They had
a well-organized urban outline: a main avenue leading to the central square
where a big church, the most important building in the village, was located.
Next to the church stood the priests' houses, the school, the offices
of the artisans and the warehouses, and on the opposite side of the church,
the cemetery. Around the square, the aborigines’ houses were located.
The administration of the village was in charge of a ‘Council of
Caciques’. Three ruins were declared Historic Heritage by the United
Nations, Education, Science and Culture Organization (UNESCO). The best
preserved in Argentina are those of San Ignacio Miní, located only
222 km (140 miles) from Iguazú Falls and 55 km (34 miles) from
Posadas. It is possible to visit the remains of the imposing temple, the
vestry, the school yard with a few classrooms around, the priests' refectory,
the orchard, the square and the aborigines’ houses around it. This
mission sheltered about 5,100 inhabitants. The buildings date back to
the XVII century and its carvings and architecture reveal the advanced
culture of the Guaraní aborigines. Some of the red sandstone walls
are 10 m (33 feet) high; the best preserved parts are the columns, the
galleries and the steps of the church that reveal the magnificence of
the building, finished in 1724. San Ignacio Miní was burnt in 1817
by order of a Paraguayan dictator and its remains were covered by the
jungle until their discovery in 1897.
Other missions in the Argentine area are: Loreto, Santa Ana, Corpus, Candelaria,
San Carlos, San José, Mártires, San Javier, Santa María,
Concepción, Apóstoles, Santo Tomé, Yapeyú
and La Cruz.
What is left of the missions in Paraguay are also ruins in different states
of preservation, located in the south of the country near the Paraná
River. From an architectural point of view, the missions of Santísima
Trinidad del Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue are the most
beautiful and important. Trinidad has buildings of baroque features. The
stones of the church façade, the tower and the door of the vestry
carved by the Guaraní aborigines are outstanding. It also has stone
sculptures, woodcarvings, musical instruments and paintings made also
by the aborigines. The construction of this imposing mission took 61 years,
from 1706 to 1767 and sheltered up to 3,500 aborigines. Ten kilometers
from Trinidad the Spanish style buildings of the ruins of Jesús
de Tavarangue arise. The three large doors with arches reveal Moorish-Christian
influences and the high stone walls area also outstanding. Other missions
in Paraguay are: Santa María, San Ignacio Guazú, Santa Rosa,
Santiago, and San Cosme y San Damián.
In Brazil, the ruins of San Miguel Arcángel are one of the most
beautiful sets of buildings with its monumental baroque church, its façade,
its towers, some huge lateral walls with arches and doors. There is also
an interesting site museum, which holds a collection of statues and carvings
coming from many of the missions that have been lost forever. These ruins
were the old missionary capital of the seven missions of Brazil. At the
time of splendor, San Miguel Arcángel sheltered about 6,500 Guaraní
aborigines. The seven missions were: Santo Angelo, San Juan Bautista,
San Lorenzo, San Luis Gonzaga, San Nicolás, San Borja and San Miguel
Arcángel.
RESISTENCIA
AND FORMOSA
These cities Aare capitals of the provinces of Chaco and Formosa, which
constitute a region known as ‘Gran Chaco’ that occupies the
vast lowlands of center-northern Argentina, as well as parts of Bolivia
and Paraguay. The climate here becomes drier from east to west, splitting
the region in two merging parts. The ‘Dry Chaco’ in the west
is likely to appeal only to the most adventurous spirits. Its wildlife
is very diverse, specially with regards to snakes, but even reptile-lovers
may find to get around in the region a daunting task, for the country
is covered with dense thorn thickets, scarce roads and no facilities for
visitors at all.
The area of the Argentine littoral called ‘Wet Chaco’ stretches
towards the northwest in Formosa and Chaco provinces, both covered with
subtropical forests. Although it has undergone some major clearance for
agriculture, it still contains beautiful tracts of woodlands interspersed
with marshes. Its marshes and rivers are habitat for diverse fauna species,
which lead to the creation of the Pilcomayo River National Park, on the
right margin of the mentioned river, in the Province of Formosa. Created
in 1951, this park protects an area where marshes and the Palma Blanca
and Caranday savannah prevail. There are woods in the highlands, and dense
jungle on the riverbanks. One of the gateways to this area is the route
starting in the city of Clorinda, some 40 km (25 miles) from Asunción
in Paraguay and 15 km (9 miles) from the park, continuing afterwards along
its southern boundary. Another access is Formosa airport, situated 112
km (70 miles) away.
In the province of Chaco, some 100 km (63 miles) northwestward from Resistencia,
stands the Chaco National Park with examples of all characteristic ecosystems
of the Eastern Chaco District. The southern and center areas are covered
by forests where ‘quebracho colorado’ trees stand out; the
western area represents the typical ecosystem of savannah with Caranday
palm-trees; finally, in the southeastern area, the Panza de Cabra Lagoon
exhibits an abundant aquatic vegetation. The local fauna consists of a
wide variety of mammals, such as howler monkeys but the main attraction
for visitors are, no doubts, its widely assorted birds. It is better to
avoid the wet season in summer (from December to March) for heat is intense
and roads become impassable.
In the provinces of Chaco and Santiago del Estero there is a large area
called 'Campo del Cielo' (Sky Land), where 13 iron-nickel meteorites have
been found. The so-called ‘Chaco’ meteorite weighs 33,400
kg and stands out among them for being the biggest among the ones ever
fell in our country and the third one in the world.
CORRIENTES
The city of Corrientes, located on the banks of the Paraná River,
is the outset of assorted circuits of interest for tourists. It has local
importance its Carnival celebrations with parades, music, dances and fancy-costumes.
The province stands out for its important water resources consisting of
an extensive system of rivers, marshes and lagoons, fed by the abundant
rains of the region, which cover a surface of 14,900 km2 (5,750 sq miles),
that increases up to 20,000 km2 (7,700 sq miles) during the season of
heavier rains (March, April and September). The biggest concentration
of water in the littoral is the Iberá Marshland. Iberá means
‘Shining Waters’ in Guaraní. The marshland, with an
area of more than 1 million hectares, covers more than a third of the
surface area of the province of Corrientes and are one of the biggest
fresh water reserves in the Americas, and the second largest swampland
in South America. Iberá retains a relatively pristine condition
due to the natural isolation it was kept in until relatively recent years.
This area offers unforgettable landscapes for lovers of off-the-beaten-tract
destinations wherein mysterious stories about this magical and fascinating
land are constantly related by locals. This reserve is one of the most
attractive places in the country for adventure tourism such as photographic
safaris, fauna watching, horseback riding, canoeing, fishing and trekking
outings. The variety of trees is infinite but the main feature is aquatic
vegetation (‘irupés’ –royal water lilies-, hyacinths,
irises and small ferns, among others). The area shelters four of the fauna
endangered species in Argentina, declared Natural Monuments of the province:
maned wolf or small river wolf, ‘aguará guazú’,
Pampas deer, and marsh deer, that live together with other species such
as two varieties of ‘yacarés’ (caimans) as well as
countless fish and bird species (the area holds more than 350 bird species).
The main surrounding inhabited areas are Ituzaingó, Colonia Carlos
Pellegrini and Mercedes. The best way to explore the reserve is staying
at one of the estancias in the area and from there set out on foot, on
horseback or in a boat guided by a local expert (almost essential) either
park rangers –guardafaunas- or ‘baqueanos’ –locals-.
Thus you will get to know the essence of the region. An advice: start
very early in the morning. Take your time and enjoy every minute.
PARANÁ
Entre Ríos province is located to the south of Corrientes province
by the Paraná River. The name of this province means “between
rivers” and is due to its geographical position since its coasts
are bordered by the Paraná, Uruguay, Guayquiraró and Mocoretá
rivers as well as by the Basualdo and Tunas streams. It has picturesque
landscapes ideal for the practice of all the aquatic sports. About 1,000,000
hectares are covered with forests and only 10 % of them are artificially
cultivated. This is one of the few Argentine provinces that preserves
its original fauna such as vizcachas, armadillos and foxes. Some of the
most important tourist centers of the province are located on the banks
of the Paraná River; the following are the most important among
them from north to south: Paraná, capital of the province; Diamante,
an important center for the practice of aquatic sports; Victoria, called
the city of the seven hills; and Gualeguay.
On the Uruguay River, the coast is completely different. The soft undulations
of the colorful land with its fine sand beaches and a great amount of
birds stand out. A road that runs parallel to the coast of the Uruguay
River links the main urban and tourist centers. Concordia, called the
“Capital of the Citrus”, is the most important town of this
coast. Large orange and grape plantations surround it. It has numerous
beaches, campsites and sporting clubs. One of the most beautiful cities
of the province is Colón, which keeps its colonial aspect. Between
both cities stand
El Palmar National Park
Its 8,500 hectares (33 sq miles) protect the last habitat of the once
abundant Yatay forest. The Yatay is an endangered palm tree due to the
action of the cows. The Park is a place of crystal clear streams and soft
soil covered with ferns and palm trees, some of which are over 800 years
old. The excavations that were carried out here allowed scientists to
discover numerous fossilized specimens.
The
Chaco
This parched area in the west is part of the enormous Gran Chaco, a region
that Argentina shares with Bolivia, Paraguay, and Argentina. The Chaco
contains both grassland and thorny forest.
The Pampas
These fertile plains are Argentina's bread- basket. They consist of the
Humid Pampas along the seaboard and the Dry Pampas in the west and south.
The region includes Buenos Aires, as well as the world- class beaches
of its surrounding area.
Patagonia and the Lake District (see also below "Southern
Patagonia")
South of the Rio Colorado, experiences a desert climate, although temperatures
range from mild to subzero and terrain varies from bucolic river valleys
to the gigantic, ice-capped southern Andes. Its cool grazing grounds support
enormous flocks of sheep, and numerous fruit and vegetable farms can be
found in the valleys. Patagonia also holds vast reserves of oil and coal.
Tierra del Fuego (see
also below "Southern Patagonia")
The Land of Fire is actually an archipelago including the Isla Grande
de Tierra del Fuego (which Argentina shares with neighbouring Chile) and
numerous smaller islands. Northern Isla Grande is similar in terrain to
Patagonia's plains, while the mountainous area in the south is filled
with forests and glaciers. Its climate is usually mild year-round, although
storms are frequent.
SOUTHERN
PATAGONIA
The southern extreme of Patagonia offers tourist resources unique
in the world. A thousand emotions invade the spirit when discovering the
region situated just at the end of the world. A land of legends that many
audacious spirits in the world have dreamt to travel. A land rather bleak,
barren, inhabited only by those who have accepted to challenge of loneliness
and the only company of nature at its best. A land where the visitor will
be enraptured by such beauty. Due to its geographical position, it is
exposed to strong winds, which is proven by its low constructions and
the lack of vegetation in the cities, whose only trees grow bent following
the wind direction and are thus called ‘flag-trees’ for the
shape they adopt. ‘Los Glaciares National Park’ heads the
long list of sites that, passing by the mythical Tierra del Fuego and
the Islands of the Southern Atlantic Ocean, ends in the captivating ‘white
continent’: Antarctica. A visit along these vast lands will make
it possible to get in touch with some of the wonders of nature in constant
creation. But once one has been there, it is impossible not to be prompted
to return again and again.
The main cities of this region are: Ushuaia, the southernmost city in
the world and El Calafate, the gateway to an impressive land of glaciers.
RIO GALLEGOS
It is the capital city of Santa Cruz province, 2,700 km
(1688 miles) and about 3 hours away from Buenos Aires (by direct flight).
Located on the banks of the river of the same name by the Atlantic Ocean,
it concentrates all the commercial and administrative activities of the
southern region of Patagonia, carried out around the deep-water port from
where wool and coal production is exportedt.
The international airport links the city with the rest of the country.
In the outskirts, stands 'Isla de los Pingüinos' (Penguins' Island),
in 'Cabo del Buen Tiempo', that can be reached on foot during low tide.
62 km (39 miles) southward from Río Gallegos is situated the geological
reserve of 'Laguna Azul' (Blue Lagoon), formed at the bottom of an inactive
volcanic crater, surrounded by the moon-like landscape of lava and stones
characteristic of 'Cadena del Diablo' (Devil’s Range - Mount Aymond).
The lagoon depth is estimated in some 1,000 m (3,330 ft.). Further on,
134 km (84 miles) south from Río Gallegos, is located 'Cabo Vírgenes'
where stands the beautiful and lonely 26-meter (87 feet) tall lighthouse,
built at the beginning of the XX century, that indicates the end of Continental
Argentina, 2,700 km (1,688 miles) away from Buenos Aires. There is in
the area a reserve of Magellan Penguins that houses 80,000 couples of
these birds which nest here from October to March. Near the cliff can
be seen the meager remains of ‘Ciudad del Nombre de Jesús’
(Christ’s name city) founded by one of the first pioneering Spanish
explorers that reached the region in 1584. Southward, it is possible to
see the Strait of Magellan, witness of the innumerable attempts made by
those pioneers that in the XVI and XVII centuries sailed these waters
in search for the passage that linked Europe with the Eastern realms.
The strait separates the continent from the island of Tierra del Fuego.
Río Gallegos was formerly the entrance to the glacier region because
the closest airport was situated in this city, though there is now a modern
International airport in El Calafate, now the real gateway to the glaciers.
Anyway, if you wish to catch the true spirit of the Patagonian steppe
you may travel at least one way the 320 km (200 miles) northwestward to
El Calafate along the never ending Patagonian roads through the vast plateau
with the only company of the sky, the poor arid vegetation and the horizon.
150 km from Río Gallegos the tiny town of 'La Esperanza', is the
only place to refresh for a while. There is a gas station, a police station,
a first-aid ward and a coffee-shop.
EL
CALAFATE
It is a nice tourist village of a little more than 3,000
inhabitants, that nestles at the base of the cliff on the shore of the
vast Lake Argentino (‘Argentine Lake’) and which offers very
good and varied accommodation. It is surrounded by small farms that grow
vegetables and fruit trees forming a belt around the small urban center.
The city is crossed by El Calafate Stream, which divides the village in
two. A few meters from the center of the city, a gravel road leads to
Nimes Lagoon, near the lake shore, a small bird reserve which houses an
important population of black-necked swans, flamingoes, ducks and upland
geese surrounded by a dark sand beach. Some 8 km (5 miles) from El Calafate
the Punta Walichu Cave which gathers some replicas of paintings made by
the local aborigines more than 4,000 years ago stands. These reproductions
help visitors to understand a world unknown to them.
El Calafate is the National Capital of the Glaciers and the most important
city in the area. Traveling 51 km from El Calafate, you reach the 'Parque
Nacional Los Glaciares' (Glaciers National Park), which protects an area
covered by glacier tongues coming down from the 'Campo de Hielo Sur' (Southern
Patagonian Ice Cap), relicts of the last glaciations in the Quaternary
Period. Its core is in the Andes between the 40¤ and 51¤ parallels of
southern latitude. This field adopts a longitudinal shape running from
north to south with an extension of about 350 km (219 miles) and a surface
of 14,300 km2 (5,520 sq miles) approximately. 47 major glaciers descend
from this ice field, some of them belonging to the Atlantic basin, such
as: Marconi, Viedma, Moyano, Upsala, Bolados, Onelli, Agazzis, Peineta,
Spegazzini, Mayo, Heims, Ameghino, Perito Moreno and Frías. All
of these spill over the Argentino and Viedma Lakes, which determines the
particular turquoise color of their waters due to the sediments and minerals
dragged from the rocky beds of these ice rivers on the mountain slopes,
that remain in suspension in the waters since their specific weight is
lower to the water's. This allows natural light to penetrate only to a
certain depth. The most renown of all the glaciers is the Perito Moreno
Glacier. Situated 80 km (50 miles) from El Calafate, it is the most easily
reached among them. This is an imposing ice river, 3-kilometer wide and
70-meter (233 feet) high in its front wall, that descends from the 'Campo
de Hielo Sur' down to the lake, at 'Canal de los Témpanos' (Icebergs’
Channel), only 200 meters (666 feet) above sea level. It is the only glacier
in the area which is considered to be in equilibrium, that is: not receding.
It has always been the most important attraction of the region thanks
to its spectacular beauty, but specially because of its unusual behavior.
The glacier slowly advances down the mountain slope towards the lake,
producing, as it spills down, thunderous noises and ruptures. Till a few
years ago, the glacier used to grow till reaching Península Magallanes,
on the opposite margin of the lake, across the Canal de los Témpanos,
blocking the natural flow of the water from one arm of the lake into the
other, thus the pressure of the water trying to recover its natural course
increased from year to year until it pierced the ice dam, producing the
famous ‘fracture’. This unique phenomenon took place every
4-year periods or so, with tons of ice yielding to the force of the water,
and bursting in a fascinating and thunderous dance of huge deep blue and
green ice blocks turning upside down. This process lasted up to 36 hours;
peace and silence returned afterwards. The last fracture took place in
1988 and from then onwards the glacier has not been able to reach the
peninsula; some scientists think it is a natural cycle matter while some
others think that the global warming is to be blamed. The Perito Moreno
Glacier was declared Mankind’s Heritage by UNESCO. The front wall
of the glacier can be appreciated from a series of walkways and belvederes
situated on the peninsula.
Adventure tourism has strongly developed in the last decades and it has
made it possible for many people to enter intangible areas where there
is very little infrastructure. This is the case of the so-called Minitrekking
on the surface of the Perito Moreno Glacier. Sailing from Bajo de la Sombra
Pier, located on the road that goes to the Perito Moreno Glacier, 7 km
(4 miles) before reaching the walkways, the Rico Arm of the lake is crossed
towards the southern margin of the lake. A short walk through a virgin
forest up to the lateral moraines (or glacial sediments) of the glacier,
allows visitors to reach the glacier. Here, the expert guides assist the
inexperienced visitors to put on the crampons in order to enjoy an expedition
on the millenary ice. An unforgettable experience that does not require
any special training.
Other ways to approach to the Perito Moreno Glacier are the boat excursions
that depart from the local piers: the Nautical Safari, a 1-hour navigation
facing the south wall of the glacier, embarking at Bajo de las Sombras
Pier; or the Moreno Fiesta, another 1-hour navigation along the north
wall of the glacier, embarking at Moreno Pier.
Some of the other glaciers are accessible by boat, most of the excursions
departing from Puerto Bandera, situated 47 km (30 miles) from El Calafate.
A few kilometers away from the port the boats reach the narrowest strait
of the Lake Argentino, known as 'Boca del Diablo' (Devil’s Mouth).
It is 1.5 km (1 mile) wide and it is the gateway to the North Arm of the
lake. Pushed by the wind, numerous icebergs detached from the glacier
fronts drift majestically on the water surface. The Spegazzini Glacier,
located on the channel of the same name, has a surface of only 66 km2
(25 sq miles), and is one of the most beautiful glaciers in the area with
easy access. It is the one that boasts the highest wall over the lake
surface due to its position between mountains. Once in the Onelli Bay,
located on the channel of the same name, it is possible to disembark at
the Juan Piñeiro Pier to walk through an ancient forest of lengas
and ñires. After an 800-meter (2,665 feet) walk, you reach Lake
Onelli where the Bolado, Onelli and Agassiz glaciers come down together
towards the lagoon filling the waters with drifting icebergs. On the shore
of the Onelli Bay, there is a comfortable restaurant where it is possible
to shelter from the cold and enjoy a bit of the simple but delicious local
cuisine.
The Lake Argentino reaches its deepest point (over 1,000 m/3,330 ft.)
in front of Upsala Glacier, located two and a half hours away from Puerto
Bandera. It is the largest continental glacier in the southern hemisphere
with 595 km2 (230 sq miles). The vessels approach to the glacial front
as much as it is permitted by the mass of drifting icebergs. The glacier
can also be reached by land, navigating into the Cristina Channel, towards
the west of the Upsala Channel, and disembarking on the east bank of Península
Herminita, at Estancia Cristina, to start a 3-hour walk upward along an
old path opened by the Argentine Navy. During the walk, you will go across
a lengas and ñires forest with a series of carved terraces and
rocks perfectly polished by glacial erosion. The 'Cañadón
de los Fósiles' (Gorge of the Fossils) is a very good example thereof.
Some 800 meters before arriving at the east wall of the glacier the Upsala
Refuge, former seat of the ‘Instituto del Hielo Continental Patagónico
Argentino’ (‘Argentine Patagonian Continental Ice Cap Institute’),
built in 1953 to study the behavior of the glaciers of the area is based.
The final point of this walk is a natural belvedere with a magnificent
view of the Upsala Glacier, the valley and Mounts Cono, Bertachi and Murallón
and their hanging glaciers.
Sailing across the South Arm of the Lake Argentino, it is possible to
reach Bull’s Bay. In this area, the highest mountains reflect into
the bottom of the lake and create an imposing combination of green forests
and eternal glaciers. This is the image of Mount Mayo with its glacier
and of Mounts Negro and Ballena. A small black sand beach on the Toro
Bay allows the access to a sector of the Andean-Patagonian forest of particular
beauty where, besides the typical flora of the region, it is possible
to see huge trees whose trunks are over 2 m. (7 feet) wide and up to 25
m. (83 feet) tall. Going through this forest, you arrive to the Del Toro
Cascade, whose last fall is 60 m. (200 ft.) high. The most important glacier
in this area is Glacier Mayo, located in one of the most abrupt fjords
of the Andes, surrounded by a dense forest. The icebergs of this glacier
flow in a small lagoon, under the imposing towering mass of Mount Mayo.
Lake Roca, located to the south of Lake Argentino, only 65 km (41 miles)
from El Calafate, is an ideal place to walk around, horse ride, fish and
camp. The way up to this place is a typically Patagonian road, where it
is possible to observe the local flora (broom sedge, calafate shrubs and
other weeds) and several ovine cattle-raising ranches, where is interesting
to visit the huge shearing barns, which come to life during the shearing
season from December to February. It is also possible to observe a few
original rupestrian paintings that will allow visitors to get in touch
with the history of the primitive inhabitants of this lands. Passing by
Lake Roca, the road finally ends at Estancia Nibepo Aike, located on the
South Arm of Lake Argentino, where you can take advantage of the chance
to taste some delicious Patagonian lamb. From here you can take a walking
path that skirts the shore of the South Arm towards the 'Tres de Abril'
and Fría Lagoons, offering a great view of the majestic mountains
of the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile (in spite of the proximity
between the national parks 'Los Glaciares' and 'Torres del Paine', there
is no direct road that links them).
EL
CHALTEN
The legendary peaks of the Mounts Torre and Fitz Roy stand
out in the middle of the flat Patagonian steppe and they attract numerous
professional climbers and amateur trekkers from all over the world. Short
lateral valleys stretched before the mountain chains make the access to
this amazing scenery quite difficult. A wide variety of walks differing
in difficulty and length can be done in this region. From El Calafate,
this area is reached through 220 km (138 miles) most of which are done
along the legendary Route 40, that runs parallel to the Andes up to the
north of the country. El Chaltén was the name given by the local
tehuelche aborigines, primitive inhabitants of the region, to the mountain
known nowadays as Mount Fitz Roy. The word 'Chaltén' means ‘mountain
that smokes’, probably because its summit is always covered with
a layer of clouds. Its particular shape, huge height and the constant
clouds must have served them as an orientation signal during their annual
migrations from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes. Its summit can be easily
seen from different places. This tiny village, of less than 500 inhabitants,
situated at the foothill of this impressive massif, is in constant growth.
It has inns, hostels, restaurants and campsites. The town is the starting
point of several paths that lead to places that offer unique scenic beauties.
One of the most popular walks is the one that leads to the first camping
site of Mount Torre, from where is possible to admire the pick-carved-like
granite walls of the summit which for many decades was considered inextricable,
until it was conquered for the first time by the expedition headed by
the Italian Cesare Maestri in 1970. The road up to Torre Lagoon is well
indicated and easy to follow. There are about 10 km (6 miles) along a
difficult steep path through forests, valleys and rivers of extraordinary
beauty. The effort is rewarded, however, by the astonishing landscape
offered by the mountain that reflects into the lagoon at its foothill.
Another of the walks that are a ‘must’ in the area is the
one up to Mount Fitz Roy camp base. The first stop is at Capri Lagoon,
reached after a one and a half-hour walk, to get an impressive view of
Mount Fitz Roy, which does not diminish, however, the beauty of the unique
and lonely landscape of the lagoon and its surrounding forests and peaks.
Going on westward you reach the Blanco River, from where the camp basis
is just a few steps away. Therefrom the last effort up the steep slope
that separates the Laguna de los Tres from the campsite is faced, to reach
finally the most outstanding and rewarding view of the lagoon and the
huge massif reflecting into the waters.
A shorter walk leads to Chorrillo del Salto, another of the attractions
of the area; and another path leads to Piedra del Fraile from where a
great view of the whole massifs of Mount Torre and Fitz Roy is obtained.
It is also interesting to visit by car or on horseback the renown Lago
del Desierto.
Besides these classical full day hikes, there are several other adventures
that take a few days spending the nights at campsites. The most interesting
ones are those that ascend to the gates of the Continental Ice Field up
to the spot called Paso del Viento or to the one known as Paso Marconi.
But the most challenging experience is to traverse a portion of the enormous
ice cap, joining some of the organized expeditions, called ‘Continental
Ice Cap Traverse’. They take about 12 days, to cross the extraordinary
mass of ice from Paso Marconi to Lake Viedma. These traverses involve
walking across glacial moraines; climbing up and down sharp slopes; traversing
over the bare ice itself or over deep, fresh snow blanketing the glacier
surfaces and traversing over crevasses as well, which often make it necessary
to rope the expedition members. The experience requires not only a strong
sense of adventure, but also psychological and physical conditions to
afford one of the most severe climate conditions in the world.
Route 40 goes on northward and following it will provide an endless variety
of impressive landscapes, as it pierces the Central Patagonian steppe.
RIO TURBIO
The tiny town of Río Turbio is situated in the
southwest extreme of Santa Cruz province, near the Chilean frontier, 278
km (17 miles) from Río Gallegos and 300 km from El Calafate. It
has a permanent population of about 7,000 inhabitants, most of whom work
in the coal industry. There is also a cross-country and alpine ski station
called Valdelen, near the Chilean border, visited mainly by local people.
From the top of the slope, it is possible to see the deep bays and fjords
of the Chilean channels on the Pacific Ocean and the summits of Torres
del Paine National Park. From Río Turbio, it is possible to reach
Puerto Natales, Chilean city deemed as the gateway to the National Park.
The area is more closely accessible from El Calafate through the border
crossing of Cancha Carrera – Cerro Castillo.
Torres del Paine is, undoubtedly, the most attractive of the Chilean National
Parks, specially because of the characteristic bold features of the Paine
Range Peaks reflected in the deep bluish waters of its glacial lakes.
Paine, as well as the Mount Fitz Roy area, is worldwide considered a trekking
paradise. The highlight of the Park is the Paine Massif, a set of mountains
towering at the southwestern rim of the Continental Ice Field, outstanding
due to the attractive shapes of its peaks: The Horns, colored horn-shaped
spires of intrusive granite into dark sedimentary rock, and The Towers,
consisting of three granite tower-shaped peaks with perfectly vertical
walls, with the dark glacial lake stretching at their feet, increasing
the dramatic beauty of the landscape. Hiking or driving around to discover
the most fascinating views in the park, a ‘must’ for any visitor.
Surrounding the Paine Range, the impressive views of Lakes Pehoé,
Njordenskjold and Grey; the latter with bluish icebergs detached from
the enormous glacier of the same name. Mighty rivers, powerful cascades,
dense forests, and a varied fauna give the final touch to this marvelous
scenery. One of the most challenging adventures available, is a traverse
all around the Paine Massif, that takes 9 to 11 days.
From Argentina, its is possible to reach the region through any of the
five border crossing that follows:
*Cancha Carrera (AR) – Cerro Castillo (CH): it is the one closest
to the Torres del Paine area, located 88 km (55 miles) from the administrative
center of the National Park and 292 km (182 miles) from El Calafate. This
pass is closed in winter.
*Río Turbio: (AR) – Casas Viejas or La Laurita (CH): it links
Río Turbio with Puerto Natales
*Mina Uno (AR) - Dorotea (CH): it also links the cities of Río
Turbio and Puerto Natales; located 350 km from El Calafate and 247 km
(155 miles) north from Punta Arenas. It is open all year round.
*Monte Aymond (AR): it links Río Gallegos with Punta Arenas (252
km/157 miles).
*San Sebastián (AR): it is the only border crossing which links
Tierra del Fuego to the continent. There are ferries that cross the Magellan
Strait from San Sebastián to Porvenir in two hours. From there
to Ushuaia there are 456 km (285 miles) by land, passing by the city of
Río Grande.
USHUAIA
(Tierra del Fuego)
Under the Patagonian sky, between Cape Horn and the Magellan
Strait, an extended archipelago emerges. The largest island is Tierra
del Fuego , a land of legends that lit the popular imagination in the
era of the conquerors; it attracted gold chasers, adventurers, pirates,
missionaries and scientists. The widespread idea of Tierra del Fuego as
a barren and icy region, is far from reality. This is a lively and fertile
land full of flowers, woods and birds. This is a paradise of eternally
snowed peaks, majestic millenary glaciers, the so-called ‘flag trees’
shaped-by-the-wind and a great deal of marine fauna.
At the southern end of the American Continent, the Andean Cordillera plunges
into the ocean producing a large archipelago of islands and rock keys,
where there is a variety of channels, fiords and bays, glaciers, lakes
and peat bogs, with lush forests and important fauna reserves. Here, the
so resistant Nothophagus species of trees impose their almost exclusive
presence. Likens, ferns and mosses appear all over, as well, particularly
the sphagnum moss that form huge peat bogs.
The island is divided between Argentina and Chile. The capital city of
the Argentine Tierra del Fuego province, known as the southernmost city
in the world, is 3,040 km (1,900 miles) from Buenos Aires. It is located
in the southern end, facing the Beagle Channel, and surrounded by the
Martial Mounts Range, towering at its back. In fact, the city stretches
over its slopes, framed by a one-of-a-kind scenery of mountains, ocean,
glaciers, lakes and woods. Southwards from the coast, the view of the
Ushuaia Bay and the Beagle Channel, and the Chilean islands of Navarino
and Hoste is superb. The End of the World Museum exhibits an important
patrimony related to the history of the city and its primitive inhabitants.
Near downtown, the Ushuaia Maritime Museum occupies the building belonging
to the former maximum security presidium of Ushuaia called ‘Presidio
y Cárcel de Reincidentes’. Very dangerous convicts and well
known political prisoners made this prison famous. It worked as a prison
until 1947 though one of its buildings is still kept in its original conditions,
relating the history of this prison that played an important role in the
history of the city, since all its staff lived therein and even the prisoners
contributed with their work to its development. The Admiral’s Berisso
Navy Base operates here.
Only 12 km (7 miles) west from Ushuaia the access to the Tierra del Fuego
National Park is reached. The park is a fantastic natural space where
numerous flora and fauna species live together in harmony. The park offers
a different landscape during each season of the year; the flowers and
the varied bird species are the main attraction in the summer. About 500
flower species, distributed from the sea level to a height of 700 meters
(2,300 feet) have been classified. Thirty percent of the total surface
of the park is occupied by the Andean-Patagonian or Sub-Antarctic Woods
with trees belonging to the family of the Nothophagus, such as: ñires
(low deciduous beach tree), coihues or guindos (evergreen beach tree)
and the most important: lengas (high deciduous beach tree) as well as
some other species in a lower proportion. Due to the diversity of climates
and vegetation of this territory, over 200 bird species have been registered
including the majestic Condor, known as the ‘King of the Andes’.
In the woods, two mammalian species stand out : the rabbit and the beaver
(both species exotic to the local environment). The latter is the one
that has caused the greatest impact on the environment, specially on the
hydraulic system, building dams that change the course of the waters and
flood extended sections of the woods. The park is also an excellent place
for adventure tours. One choice is a one-day hike focused on flora and
fauna understanding, visiting beaver dams and climbing up to a panoramic
view point that allows to get a great view covering the area from Lake
Roca to Lapataia Bay. A more demanding choice is a three-day trekking
to the Laguna del Caminante ('Walker's Lagoon’), whose extraordinary
beauty framed by one of the most beautiful landscapes of Tierra del Fuego,
is rarely visited in spite of being so close to the city, due to its difficult
access.
On the way to the park, the road goes through the 'Estancia Río
Pipo' where the typical Restaurant Tolkeyén, offers the possibility
of tasting the delicious Patagonian lamb barbecue, one of the typical
dishes of the regional cuisine, along with the king-crab. Nearby, the
Central Station stands close to Pipo River. This is the departing point
of the already famous Southern Fuegian Railway, renown as the Train of
the End of the World. It is a small 120-seat train that enters the National
Park stopping at different interesting sites. The train follows the old
terreplein of the small train that worked until 1947 carrying prisoners
from the Ushuaia Presidium to the woods in search of wood for heating.
Traces of this destructive activity are still sadly notorious in the woods.
The train goes through Pipo River across the ‘Burnt Bridge’
and makes its first stop at 'Cascada de la Macarena' (Macarena’s
Cascade). Here, you can see a reconstruction of an aboriginal Yamana or
Selknam settlement, called ‘Río Ajej’. The final section
of the journey, runs along the 'Cañadón del Toro' (Bull’s
Canyon), to reach finally the end of the railways. It is possible to choose
then between continuing the excursion to the National Park, or undoing
the way back to the Central Station. The excursion goes on to Lapataia
Bay, the southernmost tip of Argentina, on the coasts of Beagle Channel,
and the final end of National Route 3, at 3,300 km (2,063 miles) from
Buenos Aires. It is most interesting to observe there the ‘concheros’,
invaluable archaeological sites which have produced incredible information
about the customs of the primitive local inhabitants, their habits and
their every day life. Other interesting places within the National Park
are, Lake Roca and its nearby tea-house, Pipo River Cascade and Ensenada
Bay, from where it is possible to embark into a little boat towards 'Isla
Redonda' (Round-shaped Island), an intangible zone of the park, where
an interesting flora interpretation path has been outlined and where the
southernmost post office in Argentina is located.
Sailing the waters of Beagle Channel is a ‘must’, the gateway
to the waters of the ‘end of the world’. Different vessels
set sail from the ‘Tourist Pier’, near downtown. Sailing across
Ushuaia Bay, a charming view of the city and the surrounding mountains
is admired, till reaching 'Paso Chico' (Narrow Pass), which indicates
the entrance to the mythical Beagle Channel, which still preserves its
halo of mystery and ancient memories of old shipwrecks. However, it is
the perfect place to observe marine fauna in its natural environment.
The boat reaches the Birds’ Island, close to Bridges Archipelago,
where, as guardians over the rocks, the Imperial and Magellan cormorants
deceive visitors with their appearance of penguins, living along with
a wide variety of marine fauna formed by albatrosses, petrels, seagulls
and ducks. Within short distance, the Sea Lions' Island, emerges packed
with both one-haired and tow-haired sea lions that seem to be sunbathing.
Nearby, the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, only witness to the wreckage of
the German ship Monte Cervantes, back in 1930, stands on the island of
the same name. Further on, the Martillo Island, known as Penguins’
Island, boasts an important rookery of Magellan penguins. Just in front
of it, Estancia Harberton is located on the homonymous bay, facing the
crystal clear waters of the channel. The estancia may also be reached
overland from Ushuaia. It belongs to the Bridges family and it is the
oldest construction of the Island with elements brought directly from
England in the XIX century. From Harberton Bay, it is possible to glimpse
the Chilean Hoste Island, chosen by Jules Verne as the setting for an
improbable republic in one of his novels. Further east from the estancia,
which is probably the most unexplored section of the island, stretches
a 5,000 km2 (1,930 sq miles) triangle inhabited only by guanacos, foxes,
geese and varied marine fauna, including penguins, sea lions, and occasionally,
even some whales. It is called Península Mitre. It was a mythical
land for the Onas, primitive inhabitants of the land and also the stage
of the first encounter of these cultures with white men. Hundreds of vessels
shipwrecked near its coasts, and the relics of some of them still remain
laid on the beaches as well as devices that belonged to the old gold searchers
that lucklessly wandered in the region; speechless witnesses of the useless
attempts of ‘civilized men’ to tame this hostile land. A ten-day
horse riding expedition along the coast to the eastern extreme of the
island is a superb choice for those in search of challenging adventures.
The western portion of Tierra del Fuego Island, in Chilean territory,
stretches in an enormous peninsula where the highest peaks of the Insular
Andes soar up. Massifs up to 2,000 meter-high (6,660 feet) seem to emerge
out of the ocean such as the 'Cordillera Darwin', a legendary territory
largely covered by a massive ice layer, just a small example, of what
was the last glacier period. The deep fjords characteristic of its coastal
line are another fantastic trace left by the erosive action of the glaciers.
Glaciers that slide unnoticed from the Ice Field towards those fjords,
finally breaking off in hundreds of incredibly bluish or greenish icebergs.
The iced peaks of 'Cordillera Darwin', most of them unconquered, are always
amazing for the few visitors that have the rare privilege of admiring
them. A cruise sailing from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia (or vice versa) makes
it possible to get in touch with this untouched beauty. Another way is
joining one of the few trekking and climbing expeditions explorations
organized in this area.
Leaving Ushuaia northbound, bordering the river that descends from Mount
Olivia, symbol of the city, the road goes through the Andes. The landscape
is featured by a series of beautiful valleys and mountain ranges such
as the Carbajal Valley and the Alvear Range that extend up to the Garibaldi
Pass (430 meters/1,430 feet above sea level). Many winter sport resorts
have taken advantage of these most proper terrain for the practice of
different activities such us cross-country ski, mainly, and also Alpine
ski, dog sled, snow cat and hiking with racquet snowshoes. Some of them
are: Cerro Castor, Tierra Mayor, Las Cotorras, Valle de los Huskies and
Haruwen. From Paso Garibaldi, a great view of the Lake Escondido (Hidden
Lake) in the first term, and Lake Fagnano as a backdrop, is obtained.
Down, by the lake shore, the charming Hostería Petrel is settled.
Going on northbound, towards Lake Fagnano, along the main route, it is
possible to observe several sawmills, most of which are nowadays closed,
even if they were prosperous in the past. Traveling just a few miles away
from the main road, you enter a harsh and barren land, with quite rare
traces of human presence, without paved roads or human settlements. The
ideal setting for those who love nature, adventure and solitude. Notwithstanding
wandering in such a terrain poses some obstacles, such us overcoming fallen
trees, walking over beaver dams, crossing dense woods, avoiding peat bogs
and crossing rivers though improvised trunk bridges or, sometimes, fording
barefoot through the cold water. The difficulties involved in the task
are a lot, but they precisely bring along its main attractiveness: to
feel an intimate contact with pristine nature. One of the best trekking
alternatives available, is to cross the Beban's Pass. Beban was an old
inhabitant of the island who, around 1920, while he was chasing some prisoners
escaped from the presidium, reached the pass for the first time, discovering
the mirror of water that the local aborigines used to call Kami. The area
still preserves the same mystery and amazing beauty that Beban found in
the old times. Lake Kami is the one known nowadays as Lake Fagnano. The
lake, that occupies an important geological fault, parallel to the one
that formed the Beagle Channel, is the largest one in the island (110
km/69 miles long and 5 to 8 km/3 to 5 miles wide), and flows into the
Pacific Ocean. Lake Fagnano appears in the middle of a bleak and mostly
inhabited area, with the only exception of Tolhuin, town situated in the
eastern head of the lake, just in the ‘Heart of the Island’,
as the area has come to be called. And the name itself is an Ona aboriginal
word meaning ‘heart-shaped’. The town is starting point of
many different alternative tourism excursions. North from Lake Fagnano,
an area of transition between the Andean and the steppe environment appears,
the area where Lake Yehuín and Lake Chepelmut are situated. Their
turquoise waters flowing southwards, across a system of connected mountain
valleys, lead to Lake Fagnano. Canoeing along this streams and connected
lakes, facing a myriad of obstacles becomes a unique experience that allows
a close contact with nature.
By then, all traces of the Andean-Patagonian woods have been left behind.
Landscape is definitively dominated by the characteristic steppe vegetation.
The city of Río Grande is located in this area. It is mainly dedicated
to oil exploitation and exploration but there are also some industries,
mostly electronic and textile companies, that are what remains of the
Law of Industrial Encouragement dating back to 1972. At present many of
them are closed. In the outskirts of the city, there are numerous estancias
devoted to sheep raising. Its location, by the homonymous river, makes
the city an important center of game fishing, specially for trout and
salmon. From there, National Route 3, to the north, leads to San Sebastián,
from where it is possible to cross the border to Chile and then, across
the Magellan Strait, reach the continent.
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Travel
documents:
Most
travelers, including US-citizens, only need a valid passport to enter
Argentina. See our visa
section for more details. If combining your trip to Argentina with other
countries, please check also for those countries. Currently, and that
situation is very "fluid" US citizens, otherwise needing a visa
for Argentina, can visit the Argentinaian side of Iguassu Falls just with
their passports - without visa - for a day excursion, however.
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The
Paris of the South: Buenos Aires
This complex, energetic, and seductive port city, which stretches south-to-north
along the Rio de la Plata, has been the gateway to Argentina for centuries.
Portenos, as the multinational people of Buenos Aires are known, possess
an elaborate and rich cultural identity. They value their European heritage
highly--Italian and German names outnumber Spanish, and the lifestyle
and architecture are markedly more European than any other in South America.
One of the world's finest opera houses, the Teatro Colon, flourishes here
on the plains alongside the river. Portenos are intensely involved in
the life and culture of their city, and they will gladly share the secrets
of Buenos Aires if you lend an ear and relate your own stories in return.
Buenos Aires' physical structure is a mosaic as varied and diverse as
its culture. The city has no dominating monument, no natural monolith
that serves as its focal point. Instead, Buenos Aires is composed of many
small places, intimate details, and tiny events and interactions, each
with a slightly different shade, shape, and character. Glass-sheathed
skyscrapers cast their slender shadows on 19th century Victorian houses;
tango bars hazed with the piquant tang of cigar smoke face dusty, treasure-filled
antique shops across the way.
The city's
neighbourhoods are small and highly individualized, each with its own
characteristic colors and forms. In the San Telmo district, the city's
multinational heritage is embodied in a varied and cosmopolitan architecture
- Spanish Colonial design couples with Italian detailing and graceful
French Classicism. La Boca's pressed tin houses are painted a rainbow
of colors, and muralists have turned the district's side-streets into
avenues of color.
For all its diversity, the elusive spirit of Argentina as a country is
present everywhere in Buenos Aires. The national dance, the tango, is
perhaps the best expression of that spirit--practiced in dance halls,
parks, open plazas, and ballrooms, it is a dance of intimate separation
and common rhythm, combining both an elegant reserve and an exuberant
passion.
Cuisine and Nightlife
The dining options in Buenos Aires are endless. This is a city that takes
dining seriously, and meals can easily last a few hours. Like the national
norm, nobody here really starts eating until 9pm. Main courses usually
consist of an asado, a barbecue of excellent quality beef. Beef is dominant,
and it also comes in the forms of bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) or empanadas
(meat pies). The local wine is also good, especially the reds. You also
might want to try mate, the traditional gaucho drink. The national deserts
are dulce de leche, a milk jelly, and alfajores - Argentine sweets made
from dulce de leche.
Buenos Aires is never more alive than it is at night. It is what you'd
expect from a city that invented tango. Avenues come alive with people
on their way to restaurants and theaters, especially Puerto Madero or
Recoleta. People like to dress up and stay out until dawn, and anyone
who visits the city should go and see a tango show. There are several
major venues, most of them in San Telmo. After dinner or a night of dancing,
Porteños like to grab a coffee at one of the city's myriad cafes,
chat, and perhaps watch the sunrise.
Teatro Colon
The Teatro Colon needs little introduction to those familiar with the
opera. As one of the world's premier opera houses, it has hosted the likes
of Maria Callas, Toscanini, Stravinsky, and Caruso. Tickets are hard to
come by, as many of the theater's 3,500 seats are held by season ticketholders.
A guided tour lets the visitor glimpse the inner workings of this eminent
center of opera.
Plaza de Mayo
The Plaza de Mayo is the city center (the city, in fact, was literally
built around it), some of Argentina's most important historical events
took place here. Surrounding it is the Government House, the Metropolitan
Cathedral, and the Cabildo (town hall). Today the Plaza probably owes
most of its fame to the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, the women who still
show up in the square seeking information on the desaparecidos, their
loved ones who vanished during the Military rule.
The Recoleta
This area is the most fashionable place in Buenos Aires to dine; it is
adjacent to the Cementario de la Recoleta, Eva Peron's final resting place.
Along with Evita's much-visited grave, there is Our Lady of the Pilar
Church, the Cultural Center, and the Palais de Glace, a major gallery.
You can walk along the Pilar, which brims with a wide variety of restaurants
and venues featuring live music every night.
San Telmo
San Telmo is widely hailed as the most picturesque part of Buenos Aires.
Cobblestone streets and colonial buildings set the atmosphere for an array
of shops and boutiques, tango parlors and cafes.
La Boca
Perhaps the most colorful area in Buenos Aires is La Boca (the Mouth),
which sits along the port. Here an assortment of brightly painted low
houses made of wood and metal burst upon the eyes in a scene that could
almost be from some- where in Scandinavia. The main street here is Caminito,
which has an artisans and painters fair, open air tango shows, and typical
Italian cantinas.
The Parque Lezama
This is one of the city's most attractive parks--enormous magnolias, palms,
and cedar elms grace the winding paths among the hills, and a smoothly-flowing
river cuts through the park center. At the Museo Historico Nacional, Argentina's
turbulent history is reviewed, from the 16th century to the present. It
features a collection of paintings by Candido Lopez, a primitive stylist
and one of Argentina's most important artists. The Catedral Russo Ortodoxo,
with its soaring and majestic onion domes, is one of the city's many fine
architectural ornaments. Curiously enough, it is still owned by Russia.
Palermo
Palermo is area of woods and lakes, on large park composed of many small
ones. Among the attracts are a pleasant rose garden filled with sculptures,
polo fields, and the Japanese Garden.
Tigre
Situated on the Parana River Delta, Tigre is a natural playground consisting
of 350 rivers and streams and an ecological reserve. You can partake in
water sports and fishing, or check out crafts at the Fruit Dock. There
are also two museums here, the Navy Museum and the Sarmiento.
Estancias
A great excursion from the city is a visit to one of the many Estancias,
or Argentine ranches. Here you can get a sense of the traditional life
of the gauchos. Many Estancias offer accom- modations, traditional food,
live folk music and dancing, and exhibitions of gaucho horseback skills.
Shopping
When it comes to shopping, Buenos Aires can be one of the most charming
places anywhere. From its grand boulevards to the winding streets of Arroyo,
the city offers an endless variety of boutiques, galleries, and antique
shops. The Sunday Flea Market in San Telmo provides excellent, leisurely
people-watching and shopping, and there is a very good Sunday Antiques
Fair at the Plaza Dorego.
Most of
4starArgentina hotels are located close by the Florida St. The main shopping
area with Galeria Pacifico the best and most traditional mall in all of
Argentina
Weather
Fall - ranges between 10-21C.
Winter - ranges between 2-12C.
Spring - ranges between 13-25C.
Summer - ranges between 21-31C.
Transportation
Air - International flights arrive at Ezeiza, about 40 minutes ($35 taxi
ride) from downtown Buenos Aires. Domestic arrivals land at Aeroparque
Jorge Newbery, 10 minutes from downtown (by taxi, about $7).
Major carriers include: Aeroflot, Avianca, Aerolineas Argentinas, Air
France, American Airlines, Alitalia, Aeroperu, Austral, British Airways,
Canadian Airlines, Dinar, Iberia, KLM, Lan Chile, LAPA, Lloyd Aero Boliviano,
Lufthansa, Malaysia Airlines, Pluna, South African Airways, Swissair,
TAM, United, Varig, Vasp.
Taxis - Taxis are black and yellow. Available ones have a red light on
the front, and the fare is metered. Arriving as the airport you have the
choice of booking a "remise" with predetermined prices for every
possible destination within Buenos Aires.
Rail: Service is good to the suburban areas, but it is nowadays limited
for longer distances.
Subway: Five lines connect the city, all of them safe and fast. Service
is punctual.
Medical
Facilities
The main hospitals in Buenos Aires are the German Hospital, Fernandez
Hospital, Clinica Suizo Argentina, Clinica Bazterrica, Rivadavia Hospital,
French Hospital, Clinica de la Trinidad, and Italian Hospital. For emergencies,
Asistencia Medica SAME.
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Security:
Is
it dangerous to travel to Argentina?
Democracy
has brought forward many changes. In places where a city regards tourism
as serious business, policing has been heightened dramatically.
Ten
years ago, group tourism to Argentina, in a manner similar to European
tourism, did not exist.
It
is unwise anywhere to leave valuables lying around or flaunt one's wealth,
and the traveler generally does not venture far from the main stay (just
as you would avoid certain parts of large U.S. cities.) Argentina can
be regarded as no less "safe" than any region where rich and poor meet.
Just be discreet!
Although
unemployment has risen sharply between 1999 and 2001 and although as a
big city Buenos Aires does have it's spots it is still regarded as a safe
travel destination.
As
much as you know where the places are in your city which you would never
go or take other people to, we know Argentina. At 4starSouthAmerica
we do not wish to hide anything from you. However, our tours and destinations
steer clear of such dangers.
That's
also why we decided to offer escorted tours to Argentina. 4starSouthAmerica
works only with specially trained, experienced and licensed local
guides and tour directors, who'll share their best advice to keep you
safe!
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O.k.,
but what about Mosquitoes and all those tropical dangers?
4starSouthAmerica
tours do not visit places where the World Health Organization recommends
- or a Government organization requires vaccinations.
However,
we do recommend that if you are heading for the Amazon on our Post-extension
Amazon Ariaú Jungle Lodge or for the Pantanal
on our Brazilian
Exuberance that you get prophylactic Malaria medication
(and take it, too!) If you are planning on exploring deeper into the rainforest
or other unusual places in earnest on you own, please get advice from
a specialized hospital or medical center.
The
Jungle Lodge is located on the Rio Negro arm of the Amazon, which
contains less nutrients for mosquitoes, and therefore attracts fewer!
Still,
parts of Argentina and Argentina are a tropical countries. Be prepared,
bring or buy repellent and eat only in hygienic places.
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Is
Argentina expensive?
At
this moment the Peso's peg to the US$ has just been pulled! Expect the
currency to fall by minimum 30%. International Finacial markets forsee
that the Peso falling by up to 50 % to the dollar.
Local
drinks (beer, wine, cocktails, soft drinks, and bottled water) cost about
half what they do in the U.S. Tap water is safe, but only because it contains
a lot of disinfectants. For your tastebuds' sake, ordering water sin
gas" (without gas) is an inexpensive alternative.
When
you desire American standards and/or American food, expect prices as you
would pay in the U.S. As with anything that is imported, expect to pay
more, at times much more!
One
nice thing: there is no sales tax to pay on top of the bill (Although,
hotels, if indepently booked usuall -and legally- add the 21% VAT on top
of the hotel bill. Tips in restaurants should not exceed 10%.
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Oh
right, how about tipping?
As
just mentioned, restaurant tipping is about 10 %. Otherwise, where you
would hand out one dollar, give one Peso. You need not tip taxi drivers.
It
is customary to tip your highly trained, bilingual tour director about
US$3 to $5 per person per day, and your coach driver about US$2-$3.
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Language
problems?
Yes,
but no communication problems. Everybody loves to practice the little
English they know. But do not expect everyone to speak English fluently.
Use body language! In larger cities, everybody knows someone who speaks
a bit of English, at least. In the more remote areas, Spanish is best.
French, with a bit of patience, is often understood.
Hotels
usually carry at least one TV-channel is English (CNN). Many cable channels
broadcast their programs (like American sitcoms) in English with Spanish
subtitles.
Just
learn the two magic words:
Please! Por
favor! (easy, isn´t it!)
and
Thank
you! Gracias!
it
gets you a lot of friendly smiles.
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What
kind of money do I need?
The Argentine
currency is the Peso, which had been pegged one to one to the dollar.
On January 9th, 2002, the peg was removed, and the currency has dropped
to approx. 3.50 Pesos to the dollar.
Dollars
are still widely accepted by Argentines.
Please
ask us about this just before you travel, the situation is constantly
changing!
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4starSouthAmerica's
other destinations
Bolivia
Bolivia borders Peru to the northwest, Argentina to the north and east,
Paraguay to the southeast, Argentina to the south, and Chile to the west.
La Paz, the seat of government, is the world's highest capital city. It
contains many museums and provides visitors with modern and comfortable
hotels.
Cochabamba,
the garden city, boasts a long tradition of local culture and folklore
and Tarija City's excellent climate, combined with beautiful flowers and
fine wines, makes it ideal for finding peace and quiet. The states of
Beni and Pando, in the heart of the jungle, occupy a region offering visitors
dramatic and colourful landscapes. The 'Golden' Pantiti's many rivers
provide popular land and water excursions.
National
dishes include empanada salteña (a mixture of diced meats, chives,
raisins, diced potatoes, hot sauce and pepper baked in dough) and lomo
montado (fried tenderloin steak with two fried eggs, rice and fried banana).
Cruzena, is considered to be one of the best beers on the continent. La
Paz has many nightclubs, which generally open around midnight. On Fridays
and Saturdays there are folk music and dancing shows which start late
in the evening.
Argentina
Two-thirds of Argentina's population lives near the coast, meaning that
life is a beach for locals and tourists alike.
People
are the essence of the country, and while Argentina is home to a multitude
of ethnic groups of varying economic status, there are some characteristics
that everyone shares - energy and passion.
It's
not all reserved for football either; Argentinaians enjoy a good party
whatever the circumstances.
Rio is the hottest of destinations, particularly around Carnival time.
Dancers gyrate, the music beats and the summer temperature rises. Almost
anything goes. Bodies of all ages, colours and sizes don the very minimum
in beachwear and idle away the days on the sun-kissed Copacabana and Ipanema
beaches. Volleyball, swimming and people-watching are but a few of the
activities in which you can indulge.
Argentina's
landscape is as diverse as the people who inhabit it. A rich colonial
history exists, and the town of Parati is an exquisite example of
eighteenth-century Portuguese architecture. The jungles and rivers of
the Amazon, home to lush vegetation and exotic wildlife, incite
notions of exploration amongst the intrepid, while the thundering Iguassu
Falls are simply a spectacular wonder. Argentina's massive assortment
of people and places renders it ripe for choice.
Chile
Chile is situated in South America, bounded by Peru, Bolivia, Argentina,
the Antarctic and the Pacific Ocean. Home of the Andes mountain range,
it is a thin ribbon of land, 4200km (2610 miles) long and nowhere more
than 180km (115 miles) wide.
Arica,
near the northern border with Peru, is an excellent tourist centre. It
has good beaches and the famous San Marcos Cathedral. Chile's central
region and the islands feature the snow-capped peaks of the Andes,
rolling green fields, vineyards and orange groves. The modern capital
city, Santiago, has a good range of hotels to suit all tastes and pockets.
Easter Island, west of the mainland, is famous for the Moai, gigantic
stone figures found all over the island. National dishes include empanada
(meat, chicken or fish, with onions, eggs, raisins and olives inside a
flour pastry) and humitas (seasoned corn paste, wrapped in corn husks
and boiled). Chile is, of course, famous for its wine and pisco
is a powerful liqueur also distilled from grapes. While many restaurants
and hotels offer entertainment there are also a number of independent
discotheques, nightclubs and late night cabaret spots.
Argentina
(short review)
Argentina is a land of extremes, its hectic urban centres contrasting
with a staggeringly remote hinterland, and can be simultaneously hot in
one region and cold in another. The one common thread is that the people
possess a curiosity, passion, and fervour for life, most visible when
it comes to football, the national obsession. Evita, the Tango, gauchos
and estancias are the country's clichéd attractions, but what strikes
visitors most is that life here is for living - the fast pace only letting
up for the afternoon siesta.
Referred
to as a grimy Paris, Buenos Aires is a sophisticated capital brimming
with character and an excellent spot for shopping and watching the world
go by - whether it's pedestrians strolling or motorists driving at break-neck
speed. Nightlife is second to none and the restaurants are a food-lover's
delight.
Argentina's
national parks teem with wildlife and incredible mountainous vistas,
while the colossal Perito Moreno Glacier and Iguazú Falls are natural
wonders. Endless hiking opportunities abound in the south, where Patagonia
is stunningly barren and mystifying and the Tierra del Fuego feels like
the end of the world. The Andes offer excellent skiing - the ski-resort
of Bariloche being the country's most established. Horseriding, adventure
sports and birdwatching are just a few of the other activities on offer
throughout the country.
Argentina, vastly unexplored and undiscovered by most tourists, is an
adventure waiting to happen.
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Payment
FAQ's - Reservation Form We accept online or written check,
Visa, Mastercard, Discover & American Express for deposit on our tours.
Bulk consolidator fares for airlines often can only be paid by check,
and must be paid within 5-14 days of reservation (depending on airline
and fare). We shall notify at the time of reservation. Please let us know
at time of booking if you wish to pay by credit card, and we shall try
to make special arrangements.
If
paying by credit card, we require a credit card authorization form be
filled out. Please click
here
to download a form.
Requires FREE Adobe
Acrobat 5 Reader.
Reservation
Form - Please
click
here to download a tour reservation form. Requires
FREE Adobe
Acrobat 5 Reader.
More
questions? Please ask us! There are no silly questions
(but everyone is allowed to try!) Just write to info@Suedamerika-Reisen.travel
or go to our contact us!
page and your question might make it into this hit list of frequently
asked questions!
Boa
viagem!
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